High Jewelry

Defining what falls under fine jewelry can sometimes be a debatable topic. However, after many years in this business, we have identified four essential characteristics for any jewelry to be considered high-end. This is not to undermine the craftsmanship of other types of jewelry but rather to differentiate what sets fine jewelry apart from everyday jewelry.

 


1. Must be practical, wearable, and comfortable

Let's consider the example of a wedding band to keep things simple. A wedding band is a basic circular ring made of metal. Even though it's a simple design, an artisan can create it in various ways. However, only one way can make it a high-end piece of jewelry: to meet the first criterion of having a perfect outer shape and an even better inner form. A wedding band should be comfortable to wear yet elegant. 

The images below demonstrate how creating a domed or "bombée" outer side of the wedding band gives it a high-end finish. It's also essential to provide the inner side with a domed shape for a comfortable fit, which is the first important criterion. If the ring doesn't have a comfortable fit, it might be practical and wearable, but it won't be as comfortable as the comfortable fit.

For comfortable and practical jewelry, earrings are a perfect example. Earrings mustn't put too much pressure on the ear or cause discomfort. Depending on the weight and design of the earrings, we use either an alpa/butterfly system or an omega clip. Small studs and lightweight earrings typically have an alpa or butterfly system, while larger and heavier earrings have omega clips, which provide a high level of comfort to the wearer. We also make grooves on the omega clip and use clip earring cushions made of silicon to ensure maximum comfort, allowing you to wear the earrings for extended periods.

A balance between practicality and wearability

When crafting high-end jewelry, the weight distribution of earrings is a crucial factor that must be considered. The drops on earrings, for example, can add significant weight, which may make them feel heavy on the ears. However, skilled jewelry manufacturers must consider the three essential points to ensure that the earrings are aesthetically pleasing and comfortable to wear. By carefully balancing these factors, the weight of the earrings can be acceptable, resulting in a comfortable and elegant piece of jewelry.

Big, bold, yet light

A good way to save on the weight and have a nicer shape/cut for a drop is a pendeloque cut drop. You can notice that it is not a full briolette but more like almond if you like from a profile view. This flattish shape not only makes the drop lighter but also gives an elegant look to the earrings.

Comfort

Silicone ear nuts are specially designed to fit securely onto the back of earrings, providing a comfortable and safe fit for the wearer. The soft and flexible material of the ear nuts gently grips the earring post, preventing it from slipping out of the earlobe and reducing any pressure or discomfort that the weight of the earrings might cause. Additionally, the hypoallergenic nature of silicone makes it an ideal choice for those with sensitive skin.

2. Must be fine in quality of make/technique and materials

Jewelry is a form of personal adornment that has been around for centuries. The process of creating jewelry is complex and intricate, and it can be done in various ways. Jewelry makers use a range of techniques and materials to produce beautiful and functional pieces.

When it comes to creating high-quality jewelry, fine-quality finishing is essential. This process involves carefully polishing and refining each piece until it looks flawless. This technique not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of the jewelry but also ensures that it will last for many years without losing its value. Some jewelry pieces are crafted by renowned houses such as Cartier and others. These pieces are true works of art made using the most advanced techniques and the highest quality materials.

Cartier and other famous jewelry houses have built their reputation on creating jewelry that is not only beautiful but also long-lasting. What sets these renowned houses apart is their attention to detail, and use of techniques passed down through generations of master jewelers. These techniques include hand carving, engraving, and stone setting, among others. The result is jewelry that is not only aesthetically pleasing but also a true testament to the skill and artistry of the artisans who created it.

Vintage classic jewelry is a type of jewelry that has stood the test of time. Pieces from renowned houses such as Cartier are still wearable today and have increased in value over time. These pieces are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts, representing the pinnacle of fine jewelry craftsmanship.

Many so-called "jewelers" create copper wire, stainless, and other non-precious materials called jewelry.  According to the Oxford Dictionary, jewelry means:

PERSONAL ORNAMENTS, SUCH AS NECKLACES, RINGS, OR BRACELETS, THAT ARE TYPICALLY MADE FROM OR CONTAIN JEWELS AND PRECIOUS METAL
Oxford dictionary

The definition of jewelry

It is crucial to acknowledge that the term "jewelry" cannot be used to define all ornaments, as not all jewelry is created equal. While some may incorporate non-precious materials like wood and leather, it is imperative to emphasize using fine materials in crafting fine jewelry. When executed with the finest finishing and technique, an item can transform into a beautiful piece of art. It is, therefore, imperative to emphasize the use of fine materials in crafting fine jewelry to ensure the best quality. By doing so, we can guarantee that the finest qualities are applied to the final product, making it high-end when used.

Below are pictures of a necklace's 18k (fine metal) centerpiece. Please pay attention to the soldering of the wires (technique/high finish), how well they are polished (high finish), how the whole piece has volume (technique) and is not flat, and finally, how the diamonds are set with nice beaded gold prongs (technique/finish).

Side view with a nice volume to the piece

Look how the 2 steps and inclination of the cups give a good volume and feel to the piece

Back view of the piece. See how clean and neatly soldered the wires are. Good metal polishing is essential for a high finish

Nice beads on the setting elegantly expose the diamonds for maximum stone exposure and a minimum metal appearance

3. Made from a genuinely original concept design

Creating a unique piece of jewelry requires more than just inspiration. It demands a distinctive design that is original in both idea and execution. A true work of fine jewelry must not be a mere copy or a slightly tweaked version of an existing design, but rather a creation that stands out on its own, reflecting the individuality and creativity of the artisan who crafted it. Every detail matters when it comes to jewelry, from the choice of materials to the arrangement of gems and the precision of the finishing touches. Only then can a jewelry item be truly exceptional, one of a kind, and stand the test of time as a testament to the artist's ingenuity and skill.

Best ideas sometimes come from nature—beautifully crafted brooches inspired by wild orchids

4. Must be executed with a high finish

Jewelry is a work of art that requires a high level of skill, precision, and attention to detail. Therefore, it is essential that a skilled jeweler always inspects a piece of jewelry, starting with the back. The back of an item is considered to be the foundation, and it is more important than the front because it reveals a lot about the craftsmanship that went into creating the piece.

By scrutinizing the back, we can effortlessly deduce whether an item is high-end. This is because any imperfections, poor assembly techniques, or shortcuts that were taken during the manufacturing process can degrade an item, making it look cheap and unappealing. On the other hand, a well-crafted piece of jewelry will have a flawless back that showcases the jeweler's skills and attention to detail.

In many occasions, intricate assembly techniques can only be visible from the back. These techniques are often used to create complex designs and patterns that are unique to each piece of jewelry. The final structure details and polishing touches can also be distinctive in identifying a high finish. Inspecting the back of a piece of jewelry is crucial to understanding its quality and craftsmanship. By paying attention to the details, we can easily distinguish between a cheaply made piece and a high-end one that was created with care and precision.

The term "à jour" is derived from the French word "jour," which translates to "day." In the context of gem setting, it refers to a specialized technique used to create open-worked backgrounds in a variety of designs. The technique involves the use of saws or piercing tools to carefully carve out intricate patterns and designs on metal, creating a delicate framework that supports the gemstone. This framework is designed to keep the back of the stone open, allowing for an increased amount of light to enter the gem. 

The open-worked background created by this technique enhances the color and scintillation of the gemstone, resulting in a more vibrant and aesthetically pleasing appearance. The technique is often used in the jewelry industry to create intricate and visually stunning designs that showcase the natural beauty of the stones. 

The use of the "à jour" technique requires a high level of skill and precision on the part of the jeweler, as the delicate nature of the design requires careful attention to detail and a steady hand. The technique is also highly versatile, allowing for a wide range of designs to be created, from intricate latticework to simple, elegant designs that emphasize the natural beauty of the stone. 

Overall, the "à jour" technique is an essential tool in the jewelry maker's arsenal, allowing for the creation of unique and beautiful designs that are sure to capture the attention of anyone who sees them.

Conclusion

Jewelry can be considered high-end when it encompasses a range of qualities that set it apart from other pieces. It must not only be practical but also wearable and comfortable to enhance the wearer's experience. The use of fine materials and high-end techniques in the jewelry-making process elevates the piece to a different level of elegance and sophistication. Additionally, a genuine concept behind the design adds a layer of meaning and depth to the jewelry, making it more than just a decorative item. Finally, a high-end finish that reflects the quality of the materials and the craftsmanship is pivotal in determining the value of the jewelry. When all of these elements merge into a harmonious whole, the jewelry becomes a unique and captivating work of art that stands the test of time.