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Diverse styles of jewelry settings exist, each requiring skilled craftsmanship to achieve an exceptional result. Our focus will be on discussing select jewelry setting types and examining the criteria that distinguish a good from a bad setting. Tiffany produced the butterfly brooch and bangle, shown in this post, in honor of Georges-Pierre Seurat, a French Post-Impressionist painter. These pieces feature a type of pave setting that is known as snow setting, which is characterized by the random arrangement and varying sizes of the stones used. The present article concerns itself with a particular type of setting, namely pavé (also known as bead setting and which includes random pave setting otherwise known as snow setting).
Pavé setting
The term "pavé" comes from French and means paved or cobblestoned. French artisans are responsible for most jewelry techniques, so many jewelry terms are derived from French vocabulary. Using French terminology adds a unique finesse when discussing high-end jewelry. The pavé setting is simple, with drilled holes made in the metal to accommodate the stones. Beads will then surround the holes to secure the gems onto the metal. You can see an example of this setting type in Fig. 1.
This particular setting comes in several variations, each influencing the quality of the finished product. In mass-produced jewelry, the prongs usually are not nicely rounded and significant metal is visible between the stones. While this may appear suitable to an untrained eye, those well-versed in the field can detect a poorly executed pavé instantly. Achieving a well-crafted setting with neatly rounded beads boasts several benefits from an aesthetic and quality assurance standpoint. Such a setting can elevate the overall appearance of an item while minimizing the likelihood of stones dislodging.
The setting process
Nowadays, a technique of pavé setting, commonly called micro-setting, is predominantly carried out using a microscope. This equipment provides the setter with a suitable level of magnification required to manage the prongs' beading precisely and effectively remove any excess gold. However, despite the advanced technology, skilled artisans remain essential in creating an item with top-quality settings. The Ribbon watch produced by Patek Philippe is a prime example of a near-perfect setting that could easily be mistaken for machine work.
Perfectly drilled holes on this watch bezel
The high-quality setting of the ribbon watch
Only highly skilled setters can do such a neat job
Patek Philippe ribbon watch
A beautiful watch by Patek Philippe
Depending on the type of metal, the level of difficulty in setting it varies. For instance, setting stainless steel requires expert skills, as it is extremely hard and could lead to disastrous results if not handled properly. During the setting process, the metal might tear while being pulled to form a bead, making it impossible to repair.
Therefore, an artisan only works on items that are not initially set. Note that it is difficult to get perfectly rounded beads in such cases. Sometimes we receive orders for setting watch bezels, and we give special attention and care to such orders, ensuring that only our best setters handle the job. Here are some examples of the bespoke stainless steel bezels we have worked on.
Snow Setting
There is a type of setting known as the "snow setting," which we particularly like. It is similar to the pavé setting in that the stones are set in a similar way, but their sizes and arrangement are different. Setters place stones of various sizes next to each other in a random arrangement. This setting gives the item a unique appearance, and little metal is displayed, so the surface is arranged into impressive displays. Setters mainly use this setting type in watches or large surfaces, where it is easier to make such a distribution. Please take a look at the photos below of watches with snow-set diamonds and sapphires.
HERMES watch
JAEGER LECOULTRE watch
