To Cover or Not to Cover

Various types of galleries and their purpose

In jewelry, it is common to encounter rings with internal cavities. These cavities serve the purpose of conserving gold, thereby reducing the cost of the ring. This technique is typically employed in the production of commercial, mass-produced jewelry. However, in fine jewelry, the conservation of gold can compromise the item's quality without affecting its price relative to its value. In such cases, it is more valuable to prioritize the appearance of sturdiness and aesthetic appeal over cost-saving measures. This resembles producing an Aston Martin Vanquish with synthetic upholstery instead of genuine leather. To further explain this concept, we will provide accompanying illustrations.

A cavity in this ring is unnecessary and has been implemented solely to save gold. Although the amount of gold saved by this measure is negligible, being less than 1 gram, its negative impact on the overall appearance of the object is far more significant than the savings achieved. Therefore, it can be concluded that the cost of the damage caused to the object's aesthetic appeal outweighs the benefits of the gold saved.

The same goes for this ring. The saving here might be a gram or a bit more, but it is also a larger ring. This cavity makes the ring look cheap and could be uncomfortable to wear.

The design of these bangles necessitated the inclusion of a cavity and a gallery. In the first bangle, a patterned gallery was incorporated to cover the interior hollow. The patterns allow for visibility while enhancing the bangle's appearance, and the overall weight is significantly reduced compared to a solid bangle. The second bangle is purely a matter of aesthetics. Not having a gallery could make the bangle lose its luxurious feel.

In this model, the gallery is intended to conceal the diamond openings from the rear. While the gallery could have been constructed to cover the interior completely, it was instead designed to provide an aesthetically pleasing touch, giving the bangle distinct identity.

The gallery in this cross pendant is essential to partially cover the openings for the gemstones that constitute a large area. It gives the pendant a feel of a double-face usage, which is not the case here.

The ring and pendant models in question possesses a considerable thickness, which would have resulted in a significant weight had we not incorporated a gallery. The gallery not only reduces the weight of the items but also enhances their appearance, which would have been rather dull without it.

Items with no galleries

In certain instances, a jewelry item may not necessitate a gallery, and its omission may serve a purpose primarily due to aesthetic and practical considerations. The jewelry design dictates the placement of a gallery or avoiding one and when it is preferable to leave the back open. We have included a few examples below to show this point.

These earrings have a unique design that features a cavity without a gallery. This design was chosen to highlight the openings of the diamonds on the back, which are quite large and add character to the earrings. A gallery would cover up these openings and detract from the overall design. Therefore, the decision was made to leave the cavity as is, allowing the openings to remain a prominent feature of the earrings.

This ring model has two levels, with the bottom part acting as a cover on its own. The design of this model gives it a solid appearance, eliminating the need for any cavities and, in turn, avoiding the need for a gallery.

If there is no gallery, and it can't be closed, then what to do?

In some instances, it may not be feasible to incorporate a gallery into a design. However, it is imperative to ensure that the back finishing is of superior quality. The accompanying photographs demonstrate a finishing technique known as à jour (a French term), which exposes the pavilion facets of the stones to light. This honeycomb-shaped finish imparts a refined and polished appearance to the item. It is a camouflage technique and an essential aspect of the design that elevates the item's appearance to a high-end level. Please refer to the images below for a more comprehensive understanding.

A meticulous delicate work

Incorporating a gallery into the design of this brooch would not only detract from its aesthetic appeal but also add unnecessary weight. The honeycomb openings, on the other hand, serve the intended purpose while simultaneously reducing the overall weight of the piece.

Honey comb openings (À jour)

Crafting À jour openings is a challenging task that requires skilled craftsmen and meticulous attention to detail. Achieving the perfect honeycomb pattern is no easy feat, and each hole must be carefully polished to ensure maximum quality. This technique is both time-intensive and expensive, but it is necessary to achieve the desired result. The creation of À jour openings demands a high level of expertise and precision, and only those with a deep understanding of the craft can produce such exceptional work.

Conclusion

When it comes to preserving the high-end look and finish of a jewelry piece, the question of whether to cover or not to cover arises. Ideally, it is recommended to cover the jewelry to enhance its aesthetic beauty. However, there may be situations where covering the jewelry is not feasible. In such cases, it is essential to be creative and apply various techniques to ensure that the jewelry retains its aesthetic appeal. Fine jewelry is a form of art that requires attention and style. Therefore, it is crucial to take the necessary steps to preserve its beauty and elegance. By doing so, you can ensure that the jewelry piece remains a valuable asset for years to come.